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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.